Connecticut: New England's Most Underrated Coastal Escape with Pauline Frommer
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Connecticut rarely tops travelers' New England wish lists, yet it offers many of the experiences that make the region so beloved. Historic seaports, charming coastal towns, outstanding seafood, vibrant arts scenes, fall foliage, and centuries of American history are all packed into a state that remains surprisingly uncrowded.
In this episode, David Brodie sits down with Pauline Frommer, President of Frommer's Media and one of the most respected voices in travel publishing, to explore the hidden appeal of Connecticut. As Pauline updates the Connecticut chapter for the upcoming Frommer's New England guidebook, she shares the destinations, museums, restaurants, and experiences that surprised her most.
From world-class art collections and Yale University's stunning campus to lobster shacks, colonial villages, and scenic countryside retreats, Connecticut emerges as a destination that delivers authentic New England experiences without the crowds often found elsewhere in the region.
Topics Covered
• Why Connecticut Is Overlooked – The state's surprising mix of coastal charm, history, culture, and outdoor experiences.
• Historic New England – Colonial architecture, Revolutionary War sites, and maritime heritage.
• Museums & Arts – Yale's exceptional museums, historic homes, and unique cultural attractions.
• Food Scene – New Haven pizza, fresh seafood, and locally sourced dining experiences.
• Coastal Connecticut – Exploring Mystic, Long Island Sound, and charming waterfront communities.
• Outdoor Recreation – Hiking, kayaking, canoeing, horseback riding, and scenic countryside escapes.
Top Things to See & Do
Mystic Seaport Museum
One of America's premier living history museums, Mystic Seaport combines maritime heritage, historic buildings, working ship restoration projects, and engaging exhibits that bring New England's seafaring past to life.
Yale University
The iconic New Haven campus offers stunning Gothic architecture, fascinating guided tours, student theatre productions, and several outstanding museums.
Yale University Art Gallery
One of the finest small art museums in the United States, featuring works by Picasso, Braque, Van Gogh, and significant collections from around the world.
Beinecke Rare Book & Manuscript Library
An architectural masterpiece housing rare books, rotating exhibitions, and one of the world's treasured copies of the Gutenberg Bible.
The Glass House, New Canaan
A landmark of modernist architecture designed by Philip Johnson, offering visitors a fascinating glimpse into mid-century design and American architectural history.
Putnam Memorial State Park
Known as Connecticut's Valley Forge, this Revolutionary War site preserves the history of George Washington's winter encampment and the hardships endured by Continental Army soldiers.
Mark Twain House & Museum
One of Connecticut's most famous historic homes, showcasing the life, success, and eventual financial struggles of one of America's greatest authors.
Where to Eat & Drink
Sally's Apizza
A legendary New Haven institution serving the thin-crust pizza style that has made the city famous among food lovers.
Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana
One of Connecticut's most iconic pizza destinations and a key stop on any New Haven pizza pilgrimage.
Modern Apizza
Another celebrated New Haven favorite known for its classic pies and loyal local following.
The Shipwright's Daughter
A nationally recognized restaurant in Mystic focused on hyper-local seafood and farm-fresh ingredients sourced from nearby producers.
Mystic Seafood Shacks
The Mystic area is filled with casual seafood spots serving lobster rolls, steamed clams, oysters, and other New England classics.
Roly Poly
A well-regarded Hungarian restaurant in New Haven that showcases the city's surprisingly diverse culinary scene.
Neighborhoods & Regions to Explore
Mystic
A charming coastal town known for maritime history, seafood, waterfront scenery, and one of the state's most beloved attractions.
New Haven
Home to Yale University, exceptional museums, renowned pizza, and a thriving cultural scene.
Litchfield Hills
A scenic region filled with colonial villages, hiking trails, countryside estates, and art installations.
Greenwich
Connecticut's most affluent community offers luxury shopping, impressive architecture, and an intriguing glimpse into the lifestyles of the ultra-wealthy.
New Canaan
A destination for architecture enthusiasts thanks to its concentration of significant modernist buildings.
Hartford
The state capital combines literary history, museums, and important cultural landmarks.
Where to Stay
A stylish Connecticut-based boutique hotel collection known for incorporating local design influences into each property. With locations across the state, Delamar offers an upscale base for exploring Connecticut's coastal towns, countryside, and cities.
An affordable and convenient option near Mystic, offering easy access to the region's top attractions. Pauline highlighted its welcoming atmosphere, pet-friendly amenities, and excellent value.
Vicksburg Manor
A unique inn housed within a historic mansion attached to a nunnery. Known for its peaceful setting, beautiful grounds, and excellent value, it offers a retreat-like experience for travelers seeking quiet relaxation.
Can't-Miss Experiences
- Explore the historic waterfront at Mystic Seaport.
- Sample Connecticut's famous New Haven-style pizza.
- Tour Yale University's campus and museums.
- Visit the Beinecke Rare Book & Manuscript Library.
- Discover the modernist architecture of The Glass House.
- Experience Connecticut's spectacular fall foliage.
- Enjoy fresh lobster rolls and seafood along the coast.
- Visit the Mark Twain House in Hartford.
- Explore Revolutionary War history at Putnam Memorial State Park.
- Spend time hiking and exploring the Litchfield Hills.
- Attend a Yale School of Drama performance.
- Kayak or canoe along the Long Island Sound coastline.
Gateway to New England
Connecticut serves as an ideal introduction to New England, offering many of the region's signature experiences within a compact and accessible destination. Located between New York City and Boston, it is easy to incorporate into a broader Northeast itinerary. As Pauline argues throughout the episode, however, Connecticut deserves consideration as a destination in its own right, offering the culture, history, scenery, and cuisine that define New England without the crowds often found elsewhere.
Final Thoughts
Connecticut combines coastal beauty, fascinating history, world-class museums, excellent food, and authentic New England character in a destination that remains refreshingly under the radar. Whether you're exploring the maritime heritage of Mystic, admiring masterpieces at Yale, hiking through the Litchfield Hills, or sampling some of America's best pizza in New Haven, Connecticut rewards travelers willing to look beyond the obvious New England destinations.
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Transcript
Today on the Travel Intent Podcast, we are joined by a very special guest, one of the most trusted voices in travel today.
Speaker A:She's the president of Fromers Media, one of the most iconic names in travel publishing.
Speaker A:How many tens of millions of travel guides have you guys sold now, Pauline?
Speaker B:Wow.
Speaker B: Well, since: Speaker A:Wow, that is impressive.
Speaker A: his podcast was back in about: Speaker A:Your dad was one of the first people we interviewed.
Speaker A:So very excited to have you on the show.
Speaker A:I know I've been lucky enough to be on your podcast before, but I think this is the first time we managed to find time to have you on the show as well.
Speaker A:And in addition to all of your accolades, perhaps the most important one is that you have what the New York Times has called one of the 13 best travel podcasts in the world, the Fromers Travel show, that we are extremely excited to have as part of the Voy Escape Podcast Network as well.
Speaker B:Well, thank you.
Speaker B:Yeah, no, they called them podcasts for wandering souls, which I thought was appropriately poetic.
Speaker B:It made sense.
Speaker A:That is very poetic.
Speaker A:I like that.
Speaker A:Where are we going today?
Speaker A:I understand you have got a new guidebook out and a region of the world that's one of your favorites that you wanted to dig into a bit today.
Speaker B:The guidebook, the newest edition of the guidebook isn't yet out.
Speaker B:I am about to finish writing this section, but I am writing this year.
Speaker B:I'm the publisher of the Fromer Guides, but I also write the guidebook to New York.
Speaker B:And this year, for the first time, I am doing the Connecticut chapter of our upcoming New England Guidebook.
Speaker B:And I gotta say, it's been blowing my mind.
Speaker B:What a fascinating, fabulous state it is.
Speaker B:And it's a part of New England that nobody thinks to vacation in.
Speaker B:You know, when you think of New England, you think of the rocky shores of Maine.
Speaker B:You think of bustling Boston, maybe the mansions of Newport, Rhode Island.
Speaker B:But the truth is, Connecticut has everything that makes New England as a region great.
Speaker B:Like, it has clam shacks and lobster shacks and beautiful fall foliage and Revolutionary War era battlegrounds and colonial buildings and just a lot of beauty, but nobody's there.
Speaker B:So you can actually have an uncrowded vacation in Connecticut, where it's harder to do that in, say, Maine in high season.
Speaker A:So when I think of Connecticut, I mean, my, my impression is that this is probably, and maybe my impression is completely wrong.
Speaker A:So please, please dispel me here if I'm wrong.
Speaker A:But I think this is very much being like a place that New Yorkers go for long weekend trips.
Speaker A:And that, that's probably, that's probably the main, the main tourist draw.
Speaker A:Is it a place that you think like people from the west coast, from even overseas, like, is Connecticut worth its own trip or is this more of an add on if you're going to New York?
Speaker B:I think it's worth its own trip.
Speaker B:There's some real wonders in Connecticut.
Speaker B:You have Mystic Seaport, which is one of the oldest historical recreation museums in the United States.
Speaker B:They brought beautiful houses from all over the state to mystic.
Speaker B:And during the pandemic they actually got very busy.
Speaker B:They have a working shipyard there that only repairs historic boats and that has become a second source of income for them.
Speaker B:And so all of the other museums across the United States who have historic boats are now sending them there to be fixed.
Speaker B:So while I was there, I was watching people working on the Mayflower too, which was really cool to see what they were doing because they use tools that are appropriate to the era.
Speaker B:Not all.
Speaker B:They did have some mechanical lifts to get people close to, you know, it was a big boat, but really cool historic museum and a good place for people who like get the willies when somebody in breeches or a hoop skirt comes up and talks to you.
Speaker B:Because all of the docents are in modern day dress.
Speaker B:They're really just explaining the history and the history is really fascinating.
Speaker B:So you have that, you have New Haven, which has Yale University, which is a gorgeous campus to wander around all Gothic.
Speaker B:And then one of the best small art museums in the country.
Speaker B:Who knew?
Speaker B:And the docents are all graduate students.
Speaker B:So you get this really erudite, fascinating tour when you go there.
Speaker B:And you see extraordinary works of art by Picasso, by Braque, by some of the early American painters.
Speaker B:They have Van Gogh's the Night Cafe, you know, that incredible painting that he did of a publisher that's there, and incredible works of art from China, from Indonesia.
Speaker B:I mean, the whole world is in this small museum, but it's bite sized.
Speaker B:You don't get exhausted as you're going through, and lots of great food.
Speaker B:And then in the Litchfield Hills, which is a very tony area of Connecticut, you have these extraordinary colonial historic homes to visit.
Speaker B:You have these beautiful hiking trails.
Speaker B:You have this really great sculpture gallery that was created by a Yale statistician who is also a sculptor, and everything he does is massive.
Speaker B:So he'll have like a massive version of Stonehenge on one hill and then a massive chair on another hill.
Speaker B:And you feel like a little Lilliputian being wandering all over this sculpture garden.
Speaker B:And you're one of the only people there because who goes to Connecticut?
Speaker A:There you go.
Speaker A:Now, you touched a little bit upon culinary experiences there.
Speaker A:And food.
Speaker A:I know New Haven is really known.
Speaker A:I understand.
Speaker A:And pizza is one of their big things.
Speaker A:What is unique about New Haven?
Speaker A:Pizza?
Speaker B:Well, I don't know if you know this, but last year, Connecticut declared itself the national capital of pizza, kind of thumbing its nose at New York and Chicago.
Speaker B:And I gotta say, I'm a native New Yorker, but.
Speaker B:But I think their pizza is better than ours.
Speaker B:It's very thin crust.
Speaker B:It's got delightfully fresh toppings, really rich, tangy tomato sauce.
Speaker B:They call it a peas and picking, which you think is best, can get you into a fist fight.
Speaker B:In New Haven.
Speaker B:People really take this seriously.
Speaker B:I like Sal's, but, you know, there are.
Speaker A:I was going to say.
Speaker A:I won't.
Speaker A:I won't make you say your favorite, but Sal's it is.
Speaker B:Yeah.
Speaker B:No, I think that that's the best.
Speaker B:Frank Pepe is good, too, and so is modern.
Speaker B:They're all delish.
Speaker B:And in Mystic Seaport.
Speaker B:Well, not in the seaport itself.
Speaker B:In the village of mystic, there's a really extraordinary restaurant called the Shipwright's Daughter, which is now one of the finalists.
Speaker B:One of the five finalists for best restaurant in the United States.
Speaker A:Wow.
Speaker B:So who knew?
Speaker A:And what was that one called?
Speaker B:The Shipwright's Daughter.
Speaker A:The Shipwright's Daughter.
Speaker B:They have these relationships with local fishermen and local farms, and they only serve things grown or caught within, like, five miles of the restaurant.
Speaker B:So a lot of what you're eating was swimming that morning.
Speaker B:So really fresh, delicious food.
Speaker A:I would think seafood has got to be a huge part of the culinary experience here.
Speaker B:Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.
Speaker B:There's another place in mystic where you go.
Speaker B:And you know how when you go to a real lobster shack and they've got all the colorful buoys hung outside?
Speaker B:That's what this place looks like.
Speaker B:Delicious lobster roll, incredible steamed clams and fresh clams and oysters.
Speaker B:I mean, yeah, this is a region for great seafood.
Speaker A:In terms of where to stay, are there any sort of outstanding places?
Speaker A:Well, just great places to stay, but also places that would really, like, warrant the trip, that are.
Speaker A:That are kind of outstanding accommodations.
Speaker B:Well, I will be telling in the book about the Vicksburg Manor, which is actually attached to a nunnery.
Speaker B: So it's this beautiful, like,: Speaker B:Somebody left it to the nuns, they turned it into an inn.
Speaker B:But because they're nuns, they're not overcharging you.
Speaker B:You pay, like, $125 a night for that and a very, very full breakfast.
Speaker B:You spend, I think, 150 for breakfast and dinner.
Speaker B:And it's this beautiful mansion with hikeable grounds.
Speaker B:They don't force you to pray.
Speaker B:And it's just a place where a lot of people go to really unwind and meditate and think about their lives.
Speaker B:So you got that there's a chain of hotels called Delamar, only in Connecticut, really fashion forward, and very interesting in the way that they incorporate local design into each of their properties.
Speaker B:And they're more expensive, but they've got properties in the Litchfield Hills, in Hartford and in mystic and in one other part of Connecticut.
Speaker B:So they're all over the place.
Speaker B:That's another place to go.
Speaker B:And then when I went to Mystic, I stayed at the Spark by Hilton.
Speaker B:I paid $60 a night for me and my dog, and it was lovely.
Speaker B:It was really friendly.
Speaker B:They had dog treats everywhere and poop bags all over the crowds, you know, so that's the nice thing about Connecticut.
Speaker B:You really have a wide range of price points that you can do when you stay there, which I think reflects the state itself.
Speaker B:It has some of the most wealthy areas in the United States and some of the poorest.
Speaker B:It actually is the state that some people say has the highest income disparity between up and down.
Speaker B:That's a sad part of it.
Speaker B:And there are some places that are really run down, but then there are some very beautiful places, too.
Speaker B:Yeah.
Speaker A:Now, $60 a night with a dog, that is phenomenal.
Speaker A:I think I charge a $60 dog fee just to stay at our Airbnb.
Speaker A:Just to bring your dogs.
Speaker B:Well, I had to pay an extra dog fee on top of that.
Speaker B:I think it was $50, but for the four nights.
Speaker A:So now I go, and what kind of a dog have you got?
Speaker B:I got a golden doodle.
Speaker A:Oh, there you go.
Speaker A:I've got a golden doodle doodle.
Speaker B:I would have left her with my husband, but it was exam.
Speaker B:He's a professor at Columbia, and he was freaking out.
Speaker B:It was exam week.
Speaker B:So I traveled with her for the first time.
Speaker B:Me and her only.
Speaker B:And it was interesting.
Speaker A:Now, coming out of New York would most People train up to Connecticut or do you drive up?
Speaker A:What's kind of your easiest way to get around?
Speaker B:You can take the train to places like New Haven or Greenwich and wander around.
Speaker B: ch is this constructed in the: Speaker B:Absolutely fascinating place from an architectural standpoint.
Speaker B:The docents will also tell you about what was in his FBI file, which is also pretty really fascinating stuff.
Speaker B:So you can go to some places and do it without a car, but unfortunately for most parts of Connecticut, you really need a car.
Speaker A:What are you going to find out about his FBI file?
Speaker A:Do we need to go to find out, or any tribute?
Speaker B:Well, he was, it's interesting.
Speaker B:He was a gay man who was a Nazi, really, during World War II or right before he supported the Nazis.
Speaker B:He eventually recanted.
Speaker B:Was something that shadowed him his entire life.
Speaker B:And they watched him because of that.
Speaker A:And I've got to think, I mean, there's gotta be so much from a history perspective in this region to dig into as well.
Speaker A:I mean, that's so much the region.
Speaker B:Yeah.
Speaker B:I mean, in Reading, Connecticut, which is mostly a very beautiful rural area, there's something called Connecticut's Valley Forge.
Speaker B:It's Putnam Memorial Park.
Speaker B: the winter of, I want to say,: Speaker B:It was.
Speaker B:And during the Revolutionary War, and George Washington himself had an encampment there for the entirety of the winter because they stopped the fighting during the winter months.
Speaker B:But a lot of people died just because it was such a harsh winter.
Speaker B:And you can find out all about the history when you go there now,.
Speaker A:In terms of time of year.
Speaker A:I mean, you've talked about the winters.
Speaker A:They can be pretty cold.
Speaker A:But what is maybe the best time to go?
Speaker A:And are there any particular big marquee events or things that would be kind of the time to plan a trip around?
Speaker B:Well, the marquee event is the turning of the leaves.
Speaker B:This is New England, so everybody always wants to go in autumn when the leaves are riotously colorful.
Speaker B:Although I gotta say, right now I'm driving around and there are a lot of cherry trees.
Speaker B:There are a lot of other flowering trees, and it's really gorgeous.
Speaker B:It's really delightful.
Speaker A:So touring around, sort of updating the guidebook here over the last little bit, what surprised you about Connecticut that you.
Speaker A:You didn't know that you've discovered in your most recent travels?
Speaker B:I was surprised by the number and quality of the museums in Connecticut.
Speaker B:I Had no idea it had so many interesting places to stay.
Speaker B:And I also did something I should have done years ago.
Speaker B:I joined one of the museums that was part of the North American Reciprocal Museum Association.
Speaker B:And that gets me in for free to most every other museum in Connecticut and to half a dozen in New York City too.
Speaker B:So that was a real pleasure.
Speaker B:And I'm supporting a museum that I like a lot.
Speaker B:There's a little museum in New London that when the Guggenheim Museum was selling a lot of works to create a new building, they sold this incredible mural by Benton, I can't remember his name.
Speaker B:You'll see his work at the Museum of Modern Art.
Speaker B:He did these like murals that would go on many sides of a room.
Speaker B:This one was about the arts in America.
Speaker B:The one at the Museum of Modern Art is all about different types of work in America.
Speaker B: out what life was like in the: Speaker B:And it's interesting to see what he chose to portray.
Speaker B:And because the Guggenheim was short sighted and that style of art was kind of out of fashion at that point.
Speaker B:Is this little museum in Connecticut got this masterpiece.
Speaker A:If someone's thinking of a trip to Connecticut for a first trip out, what would you say is there?
Speaker A:One can't miss something they absolutely need to do when they're there.
Speaker B:I guess Mystic Seaport, that seems to be the marquee attraction.
Speaker B:Or if you're a real art and architecture fan.
Speaker B:Well, you either go to New Canaan to see a lot of the mid century modern buildings and Philip Glass's house, or you go to New Haven.
Speaker B:I think it's been such a delight.
Speaker B:I mean you go to Mark Twain's house right outside of Hartford, which he poured all of his money into.
Speaker B:So it was the house in the Victorian era.
Speaker B:And you, you see all the crazy tubes that ran through the house so he could talk from the attic to somebody in the basement.
Speaker B:And you learn all about what the, you know, the, the ultra wealthy did in that era.
Speaker B:And then you learn all about how he lost all his money and had to sell it.
Speaker B:So a lot of famous figures lived in Connecticut.
Speaker B:A lot of history happened here.
Speaker B:But because fewer people know about it, you're not battling the crowds.
Speaker B:It's a delight to visit.
Speaker A:Is it a place?
Speaker A:I mean, my understanding is quite a few people who like work in Manhattan, you could live in Connecticut and work, sorry, live there and work in Manhattan quite easily, couldn't you?
Speaker B:Yeah, there are A lot of bedroom communities in Connecticut.
Speaker B:Absolutely.
Speaker B:And frankly, Greenwich, Connecticut started as a bedroom community, but so many hedge fund managers, managers moved out there that they ended up moving their businesses to Greenwich.
Speaker B:And so I was reading about this.
Speaker B:Today, the average home price there is $3.5 million.
Speaker B:So you go to Greenwich, Connecticut, they call the main street of all the shops Rodeo Drive east, because it's.
Speaker B:It's so, you know, it's a little disgusting, actually.
Speaker B:It's not my thing.
Speaker B:But, you know, it's interesting to see from an anthropological point of view.
Speaker B:I couldn't afford a, you know, a thing on that street, but, you know, it's interesting.
Speaker A:And what about getting out to Yale itself?
Speaker A:I mean, is there much for a visitor to come?
Speaker A:I mean, it's obviously known around the world, an incredibly famous university.
Speaker A:Is there much to see and do at the university itself for visitors?
Speaker B:Absolutely.
Speaker B:I mean, you have the Yale School of Drama, which I think Meryl Streep came out of, Al Pacino, a lot of famous names, and it keeps churning out those folks.
Speaker B:And you can actually see student productions that are often better than what you'll see in New York City at night.
Speaker B:During the day, you can take a campus tour, see all the splendid architecture.
Speaker B:You have the art museum I was talking about.
Speaker B:Right across the street is another museum which isn't quite as great, but it's still pretty darn great about British art.
Speaker B:They have this famous library which was created entirely from this see through marble.
Speaker B:So it looks like a giant Domino's cube with the see through marble.
Speaker B:And in the center is this massive stack of books.
Speaker B:And they have free exhibits there.
Speaker B:You can see the Gutenberg Bible always.
Speaker B:But then they have themed exhibits around their books.
Speaker B:There are some tony stores to see.
Speaker B:There's great food, some of the best Ethiopian food, I don't know why, in the country, as well as pizza, I went to a very good Hungarian restaurant there called Roli.
Speaker B:You could have a long weekend in New Haven and not run out of things to do.
Speaker A:So it sounds like you've got art, you've got culture, you've got good food.
Speaker B:Some good places, hiking people go, horseback riding, canoeing, kayaking.
Speaker B:Because part of Connecticut is on the Long Island Sound.
Speaker B:In fact, it was a big place for traders who would go to the Caribbean.
Speaker B:That's why Connecticut is known as the Nutmeg State, because traders would bring back nutmeg, or most traders did.
Speaker B:Kinetic trainers were known as con artists.
Speaker B:And so they would carve wood to look like nutmeg.
Speaker B:And people wouldn't realize they had bought a phony product until they were scraping sawdust on their food and they would say, oh, Connecticut, those nutmeggers.
Speaker B:And that's how it became the nutmeg state.
Speaker A:There you go.
Speaker A:Well, I think you have convinced me.
Speaker A:Connecticut was not on my list, I have to admit, prior to this conversation.
Speaker A:But it sounds like it would definitely be worth the trip.
Speaker A:Absolutely.
Speaker B:Good.
Speaker B:Yeah, absolutely.
Speaker A:Well, I'm sure people will want to check out the newly updated guide when it's out.
Speaker A:So it's a guide to New England all.
Speaker A:How many states are there?
Speaker A:Six states covering New England.
Speaker A:Is that right?
Speaker B:New England, New Hampshire, Maine, Massachusetts, Rhode island, and Connecticut.
Speaker A:Okay, so you'll have that coming out, coming out soon.
Speaker B:Within a month, we have the old one out still.
Speaker B:It's only two years old, but we try and update it every other year.
Speaker A:Well, really appreciate you taking the time to teach us a bit about Connecticut today and all.
Speaker A:What sounds like a great destination with lots to see and do.
Speaker B:Yeah, it's been fun discovering it.
Speaker A:Thanks very much.
Speaker B:Thank you.
